Not a recipe but ... Je suis retourne!I have returned from my Paris to Provence trip, and I want to tell you all about it!

If you noticed the large absence of classes in October, it was because of my Paris to Provence: Eating in the Footsteps of the Impressionists trip. Fourteen of my customers trusted me to lead them on this epic, delicious, food and art filled journey, accompanied by artist and colleague, Mandee Hammerstein, who lent her artistic expertise and taught the group to sketch their memories and favorite parts of the trip. It was a dream come true for me. It was so much fun and such a success, that I plan to offer more culinary trips. Stay tuned!

Grab a cup of tea and prop up your feet. Let me tell you all about our trip! Our hotel was located on Avenue de l'Opera in the second arrondissement, just a few blocks north of the Seine and the Louvre. It was an excellent central location. We began the trip with a guided tour of Palais Garnier - the Opera - just two blocks away from our hotel. It's stunning. And the main attraction for our group was the ceiling fresco in the main theatre painted and donated to the city of Paris by Marc Chagall. What talent and generosity!!!! It was a real honor to be in the presence of this painting.

From the Opera we went to the rooftop of nearby Galeries Lafayette to see the Paris cityscape - it was breathtaking - as well as shop our way down to the bottom floor. Our welcome dinner was at Au Petit Riche, one of the restaurants frequented by painters Monet, Renoir and Henri Toulouse-Lautrec.

Our second day really got us into the heart of Paris. We began by eating our way through the Marais - praline brioche, a cheese tasting, iconic pastries, and so much more. Not to mention a stop at E. Dehillerin, THE iconic kitchenwares shop. You know, famous chefs like Julia Child, Ina Garden and the masters before them and anyone of significance after them have purchased their copper pots, specialty dishes and equipment here. While I am no where near their stature, I can now add my name to the list of chefs who had the treat to purchase in person from this shop. Then we headed to the Eiffel Tower to ride the elevator to the second level to drink in a 360 degree view of Paris at the champagne bar. Pun intended. (P.S. there will be a gallery of photos below)

Day three was an artistic immersion. Our morning leisurely walk down the Avenue de l'Opera, past the Louvre, across the bridge and along the Seine brought us to Musee d'Orsay. Their permanent Impressionists collection is breathtaking. We enjoyed a three course lunch with wine in their stunning dining room under the ornate ceiling and gorgeous chandeliers. During our free afternoon and evening, Mandee and I went up to Montmartre to visit Picasso's first studio, and to see if we could surmise how far the severly intoxicated painter, Marie Laurencin, rolled down the hill the evening of Picasso's Henri Rousseau party. We ate dinner at Moulin de la Galette, the scene of Renoir's painting of the same title. I stood under the mill in the bar area and, thanks to a clairvoyant, generous and sneaky bartender, sampled their Michelin worthy Chocolate Mousse. Sacre Coeur looks magnificent lit up at night. And the streets of Montmartre take on a feeling of peace and calm this time of day.

The next morning we made our way to Gare de Lyon to board the train to Provence. A quick three hour ride gave us time to relax, sketch, grab a bite to eat and take a power nap. We arrived in Aix en Provence and were immediately treated to a wine tasting. Provence is known for its rose'. We toured the town and visited the family home of Paul Cezanne, Jas de Bouffan. I touched the walls of this four story mansion, touched the front door knob and walked down the street where he certainly had walked to reach the main part of town.

From Aix we traveled another hour to our home base for the remainder of the trip - St. Remy - and the gorgeous hotel Sous les Figuiers (under the fig trees). The sixteen of us took up the entire hotel, located a block off the main square of town. It felt like we were part of the neighborhood and within a few days, we all knew our way around. We enjoyed an AMAZING three course meal, delicious wine from St. Remy and joyful atmosphere at L'ail ou les Cuisse (literally translated as "the wing or the thigh). What a welcome they gave us!!! The next day we had a cooking class scheduled at La Belugue but most guests chose to stay at the hotel and relax or explore St. Remy on foot.

Day six may be - IF I had to choose, and I don't - my favorite day. We piled in our tour van and took an hour drive to the town of Cadenet to Les Pastras to participate in a truffle hunt and truffle lunch. We received such an education! First we met the dogs that would be sniffing out the truffles from underneath the miniature white French Oak trees - Caramel, Eclair and Grandma. Caramel is some kind of terrier, Eclair is some kind of Lab mix and Grandma is, I don't know what. She is an old, old dog who is very sweet and very confused. We were cautioned not to accidentally step on her because she is mostly blind as well. But she happily bounced around the fields with the other dogs and us, enjoying being a dog. Caramel and Eclair were speedy in alerting us to ripe truffles under the oaks. And I even had the distinct pleasure to dig a truffle out of the ground. What a joy! We concluded our time with a leisurely, educational lunch on the patio next to the pool, high above the olive grove, lavender fields and truffle oak trees. It was a joyful experience that is hard to describe. I purchased/sponsored an oak tree for Johann to plant and I will be able to name it as well as receive a shipment of truffles in a few months. I also purchased Johann's truffle salt and truffle honey that he makes. Thankfully I could bring some of that magical experience home with me to relive.

We toured Roussillon and the Senanque Abbey in Gordes later that day.

Day 7 was nothing to sneeze at either. A walking tour of Pont du Gard with a picnic lunch, a few hours in Avignon to explore and shop, then on to Chateauneuf du Papa for a wine tasting and dinner. What more could a chef ask for?? Not a thing at this point. We learned about the region, the grapes, the collective of growers and why the soil makes such great wine here, and were able to purchase white wines which are not imported. In a month these precious bottles will arrive at my door, a birthday present for my husband that I may possibly enjoy more than he will. I can't wait!

Our last day in Provence began with St. Remy's market day. A paella being made live filled the air with heavenly aromas. Gorgeous produce and flowers, baskets and handmade soaps, antiques and French linen clothing vendors occupied several streets in town and it was a joy to get lost in all of the sights and smells. We then walked over to the monastery/mental hospital where Vincent Van Gogh spent a year of his life. It is still a working hospital to this day but we were able to walk in Vincents footsteps and see where and what he painted while there. It was a very productive time in his career. Since he was being cared for, fed properly (he had a tough relationship with food throughout his life) and had physical stability, his creativity was able to flourish. He was a well loved and well treated patient. He painted Starry Night here and we learned the themes and history of the painting. They believe that if he were to be diagnosed today, knowing what we know, he would be called Manic Depressive. It was a really moving experience, as a huge fan of the artist and his work. Once he was released from the hospital, he went to live just outside of Paris in the town of Auvers-sur-Oise. He took up residence in the Auberge Ravoux. An auberge is an establishment with a restaurant on the first floor and rooms for rent on the upper floors. Vincent moved in and was befriended by the town Psychiatrist, Dr. Gachet. Vincent painted daily, ate well and regularly, but the demons that haunted him finally took over. He died here in his room only 72 days after he arrived. He is buried, along with his brother Theo who died six months later, in the town's cemetery.

P.S. my miniature French white oak tree will be named Vincent.

As an art and food nerd, it was really special to be joined by fellow nerds to enjoy these experiences together. I want to give a special shout out to those 14 fabulous folks, whose joie de vivre made this trip so special. You will always have a very special place in my heart.

I hope you enjoyed hearing about our journey! And I hope you will join me on my next culinary adventure, Greece - Fall 2025! Information will be coming out soon and as a subscriber, you will receive it first as soon as it's available!

A bientôt! Bonne santé!